Types of Lip Piercings: Placement, Gauge, Healing & Jewelry Guide
There are 10 main types of lip piercings: labret, side labret, vertical labret, Ashley, Monroe, Madonna, medusa, Jestrum, dahlia and angel bites. They differ in placement, whether the jewelry sits inside your mouth, gauge and healing time. This guide covers each one by name, then walks through lip piercing gauges and sizes, jewelry styles, metals, healing time and when you can safely change your jewelry.
Written by Clifton Santiago, a body piercer with more than 20 years of experience.
A note before you start: we sell body jewelry, not piercing services. Every piercing in this guide should be done with a sterile needle by a professional piercer. Piercing guns are not made for lip tissue.
Types of lip piercings at a glance
All 10 are usually pierced at 16G or 14G.
| Piercing | Where it goes | Healing time | Starter jewelry |
|---|---|---|---|
| Labret | Center, below the bottom lip | 2–3 months | Flat-back labret |
| Side labret | Below the bottom lip, to one side | 2–3 months | Flat-back labret |
| Vertical labret | Down through the center of the bottom lip | 2–3 months | Curved barbell |
| Ashley | Center of the bottom lip, exits inside the mouth | 2–4 months | Flat-back labret |
| Monroe | Above the upper lip, left side | 2–3 months | Flat-back labret |
| Madonna | Above the upper lip, right side | 2–3 months | Flat-back labret |
| Medusa (philtrum) | Center groove above the upper lip | 2–3 months | Flat-back labret |
| Jestrum | Down through the center of the upper lip | 2–4 months | Curved barbell |
| Dahlia | Both corners of the mouth (a pair) | 2–3 months | Flat-back labrets |
| Angel bites | Above the upper lip, both sides (a pair) | 2–3 months each | Flat-back labrets |
Gauges and healing times vary by piercer and by person. Treat these as typical ranges, not promises.
The 10 types of lip piercings
1. Labret piercing
The classic lip piercing, centered just below the bottom lip. A ball or gem sits on your skin and a flat disc rests inside your mouth against the gums. Most piercers use 16G (1.2mm), some 14G (1.6mm), and it heals in about 2–3 months. Browse our labret studs.
2. Side labret piercing
The same piercing moved off-center, to the left or right of the bottom lip; this is what most people mean by a "side lip piercing." It heals like a center labret and is the most common spot for a lip hoop once healed.
3. Vertical labret piercing
A vertical labret runs down through the center of the bottom lip, from its top edge to just below it. Both ends of a curved barbell show and nothing sits inside your mouth, so it doesn't rub your teeth or gums. It's more tender than a standard labret and heals in about 2–3 months.
4. Ashley piercing
An Ashley, often called a "middle lip piercing," goes through the center of the bottom lip and exits inside your mouth, so a single stone sits on the lip. It swells more than most lip piercings, the disc rests against your lower gums, and it usually takes 2–4 months to heal. A piercer should check your lip shape first.
5. Monroe piercing
A Monroe sits above the upper lip, off-center on the left, where Marilyn Monroe's beauty mark was. It's worn with a flat-back labret stud, usually 16G, and heals in about 2–3 months. A small gem or ball end is the classic look.
6. Madonna piercing
The mirror image of a Monroe, off-center on the right, with the same jewelry, gauge and healing time.
7. Medusa piercing (philtrum)
A medusa goes through the philtrum, the groove in the center above your upper lip. It's worn with a flat-back labret stud, heals in about 2–3 months and tends to sting more than a Monroe.
Labret vs. Monroe vs. medusa: all three use a flat-back labret stud and heal on a similar timeline. Only placement differs: a labret sits below the bottom lip, a Monroe above the upper lip to one side, and a medusa above the upper lip in the center.
8. Jestrum piercing
A Jestrum is a vertical medusa: a curved barbell runs from the center of the upper lip up into the philtrum. Like a vertical labret, it doesn't touch your teeth or gums. It swells more than most and takes about 2–4 months to heal.
9. Dahlia piercing
Dahlia piercings, sometimes called "joker bites," are a pair, one at each corner of the mouth, each with a flat-back labret stud. The corners of your mouth move constantly, so choose a piercer who has done them before.
10. Angel bites
Angel bites are a Monroe and a Madonna together, one on each side above the upper lip. Each heals in about 2–3 months.
Snake bites and other "bites"
Snake bites are two side labrets, one on each side of the bottom lip, and they're the most popular lip piercing pair. Other combos include spider bites (two close together on one side) and cyber bites (a medusa plus a labret). For gauges, jewelry, healing time and how every "bite" compares, see our full snake bite piercing guide.
Lip piercing gauge and size
Lip jewelry is sized two ways: the gauge (thickness of the post or wire) and the length or diameter.
| Gauge | Thickness | Usually used for |
|---|---|---|
| 18G | 1.0mm | Fine labret studs (healed piercings only) |
| 16G | 1.2mm | Most lip piercings, the standard lip ring size |
| 14G | 1.6mm | Labret, vertical labret, Jestrum, Ashley |
A lower gauge number means thicker jewelry. Match the gauge your piercer used.
Post length matters as much as gauge. New lip piercings start on a longer post, often 3/8" (10mm) or more, to allow for swelling, then move to a shorter one, commonly 5/16" (8mm) or 1/4" (6mm), so the disc doesn't rub your gums. Lip hoops are usually 5/16" (8mm) or 3/8" (10mm) in inner diameter. For a full measuring walkthrough, see our body jewelry gauge size chart.
Lip piercing jewelry styles
- Flat-back labret stud: a straight post with a flat disc inside the mouth and a ball or gem on the front, standard for most lip piercings. Examples: our titanium labret stud with a 3mm ball and titanium labret stud with a CZ gem.
- Curved barbell: used for vertical labret and Jestrum piercings. Example: our 16G titanium curved barbell. See all curved barbells.
- Hinged hoop: a seamless ring that clicks shut, for a healed side labret or snake bite. Example: our titanium hinged segment ring, available in 16G and 14G. See all piercing hoops.
- Threadless or internally threaded ends: on both, the threads never pass through the piercing. Threadless (push-pin) ends press in and are the easiest to swap once healed.
Choosing a metal
- Titanium is the usual choice for new or sensitive piercings. Our titanium body jewelry is G23 titanium, which contains no nickel.
- Surgical steel is durable and affordable, but it contains a small amount of nickel. It's best worn in a fully healed piercing, and people with a nickel sensitivity should choose titanium. Example: our 16G surgical steel push-pin labret.
- 14K gold works well in healed piercings. Choose solid gold rather than plated.
- Sterling silver isn't a good choice for lip piercings. It tarnishes in contact with saliva and can irritate the tissue.
How long does a lip piercing take to heal?
Most lip piercings take about 2–3 months to heal; Ashley and Jestrum piercings can take up to 4. Swelling peaks in the first few days, and a piercing can look healed before the tissue inside has caught up.
A lip piercing heals from two sides: your skin on the outside and your mouth on the inside. Clean the outside with sterile saline. Our posts on saline solution and healing a piercing faster focus on noses, but the saline routine is the same. Inside, rinse with alcohol-free mouthwash or saline after eating, go easy on smoking, alcohol and spicy food, and don't click the jewelry against your teeth.
If you see spreading redness, heat, thick yellow or green discharge, or you develop a fever, see a doctor.
When can I change my lip piercing?
Wait until the piercing is fully healed, usually 2–3 months, before changing the jewelry yourself. Changing it early can irritate the piercing, and lip piercings can shrink quickly with the jewelry out.
The one exception is downsizing. Once the swelling goes down, usually within a few weeks, your piercer should swap the long starter post for a shorter one. Don't skip it: a post that's too long can rub your gums and chip teeth.
When you're ready to switch, wash your hands, have the new jewelry ready and cleaned, and match the gauge of what you're wearing now. Save hoops for a fully healed piercing.
Does a lip piercing hurt?
Most people describe a lip piercing as a quick, sharp pinch, followed by a few days of swelling. Pain is personal, but as a general guide:
- Lower: labret, side labret, Monroe, Madonna
- Moderate: medusa, dahlia, angel bites (two at once)
- Higher: vertical labret, Ashley, Jestrum
Eat soft, cool foods for the first few days while the swelling settles.
Frequently asked questions
What are the different lip piercing names?
Labret, side labret, vertical labret, Ashley, Monroe, Madonna, medusa (also called philtrum), Jestrum, dahlia and angel bites. Common pairs and combinations include snake bites, spider bites, cyber bites and canine bites.
What is the least painful lip piercing?
A standard or side labret is usually the least painful, followed by a Monroe or Madonna. Piercings through the lip itself, like a vertical labret or Ashley, hurt and swell more.
Which lip piercings don't damage teeth?
Vertical labret and Jestrum jewelry sits outside the mouth, away from your teeth and gums. For the rest, downsize after the swelling settles and keep up with dental checkups.
How long should I avoid kissing after a lip piercing?
Avoid open-mouth kissing and oral contact until the piercing is healed, and at minimum for the first few weeks, since another person's saliva can carry bacteria into it.
What size lip ring do I need?
Most lip piercings are 16G, some 14G. Healed labret posts are usually 1/4" (6mm) or 5/16" (8mm) long, and lip hoops 5/16" (8mm) or 3/8" (10mm) in diameter. Ask your piercer if you're unsure of your gauge.
Planning a nose or tongue piercing too? See our guides to the types of nose piercings and tongue piercings.
Find your next lip ring
Whether you're picking a flat-back labret for a new Monroe or a hoop for a healed side labret, we've sold body jewelry since 2018. Free shipping on orders over $35. Shop all lip piercing jewelry.